A practical guide based on real experience
An overnight ferry is not just a way to move.
It is also an experience.
Before choosing this trip, I think it is better to know
how it actually feels.
Here, I use the overnight ferry from Tomakomai (Hokkaido) to Oarai (Ibaraki near Tokyo) as an example
and write honestly about the body, the senses, and fatigue.
- How strong is the motion?
- Engine noise and vibration
- Could I sleep?
- Temperature and air
- What the bath feels like
- How tired did I feel in the morning?
- Food (very important)
- Honestly, the transfers are a hassle
- How it compares to other transport
- This ferry is good for people who:
- This ferry is not for people who:
- Another option: stay one night in Mito
- Conclusion
How strong is the motion?
During this trip, the motion was very gentle.
At least, it was never strong enough to make walking difficult.
The motion depends on the weather,
but it did not feel like “constant shaking.”
Overall, the ship felt stable, like a large vessel.
That said, there are motion sickness bags in the corridors,
and some toilets have special bowls for vomiting.
This suggests that the ship can move a lot in rough weather.
If you get seasick easily,
it is a good idea to bring motion sickness medicine.
Engine noise and vibration
In the capsule-style room (Comfort class),
engine noise and vibration were barely noticeable.
Because it was a weekday,
the ship was quiet and calm at night.
However, Tourist class (open sleeping area) is different.
Snoring and teeth grinding can be heard.
If you are:
- sensitive to noise
- uncomfortable with other people’s sounds
it is safer to choose a capsule room or a private room,
even if it costs more.
※ I have not stayed in a private room yet,
so I do not describe it here.
Could I sleep?
In short, yes, I slept well.
Lights-out is around 10:00 PM.
Staff probably turn off the lights.
The bedding is simple,
but the ship is warm, and I had no major complaints.
Temperature and air
The ship felt slightly warm.
Even in winter, it felt comfortable enough to wear short sleeves.
However, the air is dry.
You may want to hang a wet towel to add moisture.
What the bath feels like
One of the best parts of an overnight ferry is the public bath.
Honestly,
being able to take a proper bath during the trip
is already a good reason to choose the ferry.
Soaking in hot water after long travel
greatly reduces physical fatigue.
How tired did I feel in the morning?
I did not feel tired at all.
Compared to airplanes or overnight buses,
you can move around more on a ferry,
so there is no stiffness in the morning.
You will have enough energy
to do things after arrival.
Food (very important)
On board, you are allowed to bring:
- convenience store bento
- cup noodles
However,
bringing outside food into the restaurant is not allowed.
Meals at the restaurant are buffet-style,
and honestly, the quality is quite high.
People who expect little from ferry food may be surprised.
That said, the ferry does not offer:
- halal meals
- special religious meals
However, you can talk to the staff about:
- what you can eat
- food allergies
I actually saw two Muslim women wearing headscarves
talking with staff about food options.
Honestly, the transfers are a hassle
I will be very clear here.
- Sapporo → Tomakomai Port by bus (about 2 hours)
- Oarai Port → Mito Station by bus
- Mito → Tokyo by highway bus
There are many transfers,
and it is quite inconvenient.
I do not recommend this route
for short trips.
From New Chitose Airport,
many flights go directly to Haneda or Narita.
With low-cost carriers,
flights cost around ¥8,000
and take about 1 hour and 40 minutes.
How it compares to other transport
- Airplane
Very fast and easy - Shinkansen
Good balance of speed and comfort (currently runs only as far as Shin-Hakodate-Hokuto Station)
The ferry is different from all of these.
This ferry is good for people who:
- have plenty of time
- want to enjoy the journey itself
- want to try a ferry at least once
This ferry is not for people who:
- are on a short trip
- want to move immediately after arrival
- prioritize efficiency above everything
Another option: stay one night in Mito
After arriving at Oarai,
staying one night in Mito is another option.
Mito is famous for natto.
You can experience eating a natto set meal in its hometown.
If you think of the ferry as
transport + one night,
this can be a good plan.
Conclusion
This overnight ferry is not something you take
because it is convenient.
It is a trip that only people who enjoy the journey itself
will truly appreciate.
▶ Official Website: MOL Sunflower
